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Seoul Fashion Week for insiders and outsiders

Country‘s largest fashion event showcases diverse talents of local designers, attracts street fashionistas

By Im Eun-byel

Published : March 25, 2018 - 18:53

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Wrapping up its five-day exploration of styles and trends, the 2018 fall-winter HERA Seoul Fashion Week ended its run Saturday.

The country’s largest fashion event took place from Tuesday to Saturday at Dongdaemun Design Plaza, where 39 local designers showed off their collections to buyers, the press and the invited public. This year, the organizers invited more than 180 foreign buyers from high-end department stores, boutiques and online shopping websites.

There was as much action outside the DDP as inside, where only invitees were allowed.

Fashionistas decked out in bold, eye-catching outfits stood outside, striking poses against the backdrop of the iconic building designed by the late Zaha Hadid for anyone pointing cameras at them. Here are some highlights from the Seoul Collection. 


Day 1 -- A.Bell 

(Seoul Design Foundation) (Seoul Design Foundation)

“Light” was the keyword for the brand led by designers Choi Byung-doo and Park Eui-ji. Around 34 outfits portraying the refraction and reflection of light were showcased. Hues of white, beige, ivory and black dominated the collection. Keeping a classic touch, the looks were varied with feminine elements. Few details were added but the silhouettes were graceful. The outfits focused on the use of delicate lines designed to accentuate femininity.


Day 2 -- Push Button 

(Seoul Design Foundation) (Seoul Design Foundation)

The audience at the show was sent straight back to the 1990s, albeit a more glamorous version of the grunge decade. Showcasing the brand’s signature style of oversized tailoring, there were plenty of outerwear with oversized shoulders on the runway. Voluminous shirt dresses and drawstring trousers -- symbolic touches of designer Park Seung-gun -- were spotted as well.


Day 3 -- Blindness

The keyword for the Blindness brand is “genderless.” (Seoul Design Foundation) The keyword for the Blindness brand is “genderless.” (Seoul Design Foundation)


Blindness’ show managed to fully express the artistry of Park Ji-sun and Shin Kyu-yong, featuring garments that maximized creativeness.

The show’s keyword could be defined as “genderless.” Male models showcased clothes that couldn’t be defined as men’s or women’s. While the overall shapes were masculine, oversized and angular, the details were feminine with floral prints, see-through materials and frills. 


Day 4 -- The Centaur 

A model walks the runway for The Centaur. (Seoul Design Foundation) A model walks the runway for The Centaur. (Seoul Design Foundation)


Under the concept of “Glamour of a Private Conspiracy Theory,” the Centaur sought to depict the luxuriousness of fantasy.

While displaying preppy looks with an achromatic use of color, the brand also managed to pull off outfits in pastel colors. Designer Ye Ran-ji also showcased how two different fabrics can be used at the same time. 


Day 5 -- Low Classic

A model walks the runway for Low Classic. (Seoul Design Foundation) A model walks the runway for Low Classic. (Seoul Design Foundation)

Low Classic, led by designer Lee Myung-shin, was inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe, an American artist famous for her depictions of New Mexico landscapes.

The collection was heavily influenced by colors redolent of O’Keefe’s work -- beige, light brown and dusty green. 


Generation Next 

(Im Eun-byel/The Korea Herald) (Im Eun-byel/The Korea Herald)

Presenting collections by up-and-coming designers, specifically designers who have run a brand for less than five years, Generation Next took place under the Miraero Bridge in DDP.

The shows by 29 designers were more challenging and energetic, compared to the Seoul Collection. Here are three highlights from the Generation Next.


BESFXXK 

Models for BESFXXK cover their faces with scarf-like masks. (Seoul Design Foundation) Models for BESFXXK cover their faces with scarf-like masks. (Seoul Design Foundation)


Designers Kim Bo-na and Lim Jae-hyuk staged a unique show where all the models wore scarf-like masks that completely hid their faces. While the concept could have come off as creepy, the vivid colors of the masks lent to the light, casual atmosphere of the show.

Unique cuts, bold silhouettes and volume characterized the collection. Atypical and asymmetrical shapes were also exaggerated by stripes and checkered patterns. 


Vanon Studio

Inpired by construction workers, Vanon Studio’s runway resembled that of a road under construction. The opening model appeared on the stage dragging along a safety cone.

While construction workers’ clothes are usually long-sleeved, covering every inch of the arms and legs for protection, designer Yang Young-hwan took a new approach, going for a revealing look by exposing various body parts.

MOHO 

MOHO’s collection is inspired by robes worn by Korean monks. (Seoul Design Foundation) MOHO’s collection is inspired by robes worn by Korean monks. (Seoul Design Foundation)


MOHO’s concept was “Stability from Instability,” depicting the process of radioactive decay. Designer Lee Ku-ho was inspired by the robes of Korean Buddhist monks. Thick, gray fabric was used for all the creations presented. Models’ heads were painted with black ink that came down to their foreheads as if the ink was dripping, adding to the gothic atmosphere of the show. 

By Im Eun-byel (silverstar@heraldcorp.com)